Garage Floor Coating Application Tips and General Questions

Q. What do you do on a garage floor when you have a control joint or an expansion joint in the concrete floor which you want to install the roll on rock system 4 over?

A. You always leave them.  Be careful not to let the epoxy puddle into the joint. When scraping the flake you will also trim the edges of saw cuts by slicing the scraper along the edge of joint.  This cuts the flake edges off to the edge of concrete leaving a clean line.  The reason you do not fill the joints is that whatever you fill it with will probably crack from the expansion and contraction of joint.

Q. Hi Mike...Although the Hybrid system went pretty smooth, we noticed that there was'nt that high gloss that the sample swatches have ..Is there a way to match that gloss for this particular garage with another top coat? Or are we past the point for that garage? We are laying the 4195 with the 5073 top coat on two garages this week. We'll see how that goes but eventually we want to come very close to the gloss on the swatches, even if it means going out extra days. Can you suggest a system or additional steps that we can take with the 4195 system to achieve this look.. thanks. Frank Collea. Smart Garage

A. OK, if you are using 4195 make sure you give the floor a good scrape.  It will be difficult to scrape of the flake so don’t worry about giving it a lot of elbow grease. That procedure with a coat of 5073 should be fine.  If you want more than that, go with the same aggressive scrape procedure but apply a coat 5205 over the flake first. This will seal the flake and dry fast so you can put a coat of 5073 on top of it 25 minutes later.  You will have the best build doing it that way and you don’t have to go back on another day  to do it.  You can also start selling the 1-inch flake, this will give the appearance of high build without using more material. The reason is that the larger flake will lay flatter and have less surface area for the topcoat to cover (the small chip is more jagged which creates more surface area that needs more material to cover it).  Also, it will have more shine because there is less texture (texture always takes away from gloss).  You may want to do a job with the 1 inch to see it for yourself. Also by the time the 1 inch flake gets to the floor and is scraped it usually comes out looking like ½ inch.

Q. What is the best way to roll the clear topcoat?

A. Most installers use an 18-inch no lint roller for topcoats, some use squeegees. The end result should be a uniform film that is rolled out evenly. If the garage is broken up into 4 sections by control or expansion joints then you will want to do one square at a time and move on to the next one when the first square is finished off evenly. A good method to start with is to pour 2 bands of material in the section splitting the square into 3 rectangles. This will create a railroad track pattern. If using Polyurea or 5400 Waterbased Urethane then you will want to keep the material in the bucket and only use it as you need it. If it is CRU or epoxy then you will want to pour it all out of the bucket onto the floor so it stays open longer. Now that you have the railroad tracks, you will begin to spread the material across the tracks going in the same direction as railroad ties. Work the material evenly while working quickly. There is no need to slow roll, you also can overlap the expansion joints so just be sure to work fast. To finish off the square you will want to cross-roll the section in the same direction as the railroad tracks. Pay attention to the sound of the roller if using one, it will sound louder where the material is thin and quieter where it is thick. Be sure the section looks good before proceeding to the next section.You will not want to touch up a section much more than 5 or 10 minutes after finishing it because the material may not flow and level out which may make the touch up noticeable. Finish all sections in this manner and you will have a beautiful floor. You may want to finish the sections leading to the home entrance first since the material will be loose and easy to work with and the entrance is what your customer will be looking at everyday. For garages that have no expansion joints you should start at the right or left side and work from the back to the front and cross-roll the completed area after you have completed about 5-7 feet. You do not want to do much more than 5-7 feet because it is important to maintain a wet edge if you do not want to see any roller marks. Another tip is to cut in the curb walls first and to also use a sausage roller for edges. 5073 Tip Guide can be accessed by clicking here 5073 Rolling Techniques

Q. I am trying to understand MVE and what it means. Do you have any info that might help with understanding exactly what this means in real terms. Is MVE something you can see visible in most cases? The reason I am asking is I have a potential customer that says their 40 yr old concrete floor has moisture on it in the winter time and wants to know if the floor is a candidate for epoxy. I read the specs on the 4150 Vapor Blocking/Stop stating that it is good for 15lbs to 2lbs. Just trying to figure out what that means.

A. MVE stands for moisture vapor emissions. We refer to this when applying a coating over a concrete slab on grade. When there is moisture beneath the slab it can travel up through the slab as vapor.  Usually the hottest time of the day is when you have the highest levels of MVE. For example you will see some slow drying coatings bubble as they dry when applied in the heat of the day and not bubble when applied at cooler times.  We rate our coatings adhesion based on MVE,  for a non breathable epoxy type system. Basically the better it adheres, the higher the MVE it can withstand before blowing off or blistering. We base our recommendations off of calcium chloride tests, which measure the MVE coming off a slab, this test takes about 2-3 days to perform.  We can then recommend a coating that will work based on the final result of the test.  The bottom line is that pretty much all of our systems will withstand 5-8 lbs of mve and then we have others that will go to 18lbs. Stay away from anything in the high teens as they are probably not worth the risk.  We have our system 1 down on 3 jobs with readings of 25 lbs as a test (over a year old) and so far they are holding. System one uses all waterbased technology which is considered breathable and that is why we have been testing it with these extreme levels of MVE..

Roll On Rock System 4h

Price:
Price for 4h is about 30-40% more but you have to remember that it also includes a primer coat which our system 2 does not. This will add build to the system as well as prevent the chance of holidays to to suck out of the epoxy into the concrete. 30-40% more is well worth it since you can put down a better system, do it in half the time so it doubles your production and probably your territory while reducing the inconvenience to your customer.
Concrete Profile:
Aggressive concrete preparation is not needed with this system. This is because the 5205 wicks into the concrete. Start with a clean porous concrete surface and grind the concrete using a 7-inch or larger grinder with a diamond grinding wheel to achieve a concrete texture similar to a 150 grit sandpaper. As a general rule an average 2 car garage should take about 30 minutes for 1 man to do. Do not acid etch period. Do not grind or shotblast unless there is an existing sealer or bond breaker present.
Holidays:
Another benefit is that the bodycoat will actually pull the flakes down which causes them to lay flatter (much like the system 1) and because of this the topcoat looks like it has more build since there is less surface area.
Extra Build tip:
5205is great as a first topcoat over the flake when you want to create extra build, the reason is that you can apply it thinner so it seals the flake (Prevents the 5073 from diving into the flake) and it is dry in 20-30 minutes so you can put a coat of 5073 on top and all of it will remain on top since the flake is already sealed. This saves money for the 2 coat installer because the 5205 is less expensive, covers more and dries extremely fast.
How to Get The Most Potlife:
First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.
Touch Up a Holiday Where The Flake Did Not Hold:
This will not be an issue with experienced installers but if you do get a holiday where the flake does not cover then go ahead and use the 5205 and apply it very tight to the surface that needs more flake. Then sprinkle a very small amount of flake onto it just so it blends in to the rest of the area. DO NOT OVER FLAKE! This is the biggest mistake people make and it will be noticeable. Look at the touched up area from other angles to be sure it blends in. Allow it to dry 20 minutes then do a light re-scrape. Now your floor is ready to be sealed.
5073 Topcoat Tips:
Work the material as listed above in the how to get most potlife section. The biggest thing to stress is uniform thickness. By using an 18 inch roller you are spreading the material more evenly since there are 2 pressure points be applied to the roller (the left & right side). Also be sure to cross roll all sections before proceeding to the next section. Watch for low spots or puddles as these will become shiners (round glassy areas that are noticeable). If applying another coat after 24 hours then be sure to lightly sand the surface to de-gloss it. 5073 Tip Guide can be accessed by clicking here 5073 Rolling Techniques
New Construction Selling Point:
On most new developments the garage floor option is the last option to be done so it is usually done a day or so before the close of escrow. With most systems you have to wait 2-3 days before being able to use the floor. That is not the case with system 4, they can put it back in use the next day which means the development can release the property a day or 2 early which saves them interest and it reduces the chance of call back since the floor will be ready to take wear from other subs doing clean up.
Chip Profile
The chips will tend to lay flatter in the 5210, creating less surface profile when applying your clear topcoat.

4001 Waterbased Epoxy

Prevent Streaking
Because 4001 provides a wet look it can cause streaking if not applied correctly. keep the material cool and do not apply at the hottest time of the day. Also it is extremely important to maintain a wet edge. If the material is allowed to dry before the next roller pass is applied then you have the possibility of it streaking.
Prevent Whitening or Blushing of The Dry Material:
There are 2 causes related to the material turning white when wet. 1.Mixing, it is not mixed correctly so be sure your applicators understand the importance of mixing correctly when using 2 component products. Just because it is thin does not mean you ca use a stick to stir it, if you do be prepared to get white blush spots in areas that are exposed to water or MVE. 2. Potlife 4001 will still remain fluid after the potlife has been exceeded and the problem that this creates is that the applicator still thinks it is ok to use because it looks and smells the same. So to try and save on material they will apply it and sometimes it looks ok or other times it will turn white like when it becomes wet. DO NOT USE AFTER THE STATED POTLIFE!
Its Too Late I Already Have White Areas:
First , do not seal over white 4001 that has not dried clear, if you do chances are the sealer will prevent you from repairing the 4001 and removal will be needed. If it is do to poor mixing then take care and wipe down the area with xylene until the white goes away. Then lightly sand the area and re-coat. This will work to resolve minor problems like barely over the potlife or slight variations from the potlife and if the whiteness is caused from water coming from above (instead of below up thru the slab). If the problem is more severe then removal of the 4001 and then proper re-application may be needed.
I Love the 4001 but I Need a Matte Finish:
Apply a coat of 5400 Matte over it.
It is also possible to pre-wear the surface by using buffing machines and proper pads and this will also provide a matte finish.
I use the 4001 as a Primer For Other Systems:
4001 is often used as a primer below finish resins, microtopping's or other clear sealers and it works great when used correctly. It is very important to apply the material over the 4001 shortly after it has set up and within a few hours of it drying. If you wait too long to apply the next layer over it then you risk the chance of the 4001 becoming a bond breaker. This is due to its high hardness and most material will not bond well to it. If the 4001 is very hard (check by using a fingernail, it will be difficult to scratch) then you will need to re-apply. If it is longer than 24 hours then it will need to be lightly sanded before re-application of 4001.

4005 Waterbased Epoxy Primer

Mixing:
Be sure to mix well and use the material within the potlife listed. 4005 may still be fluid and look the same after the potlife but it will not have the properties needed to work well.
It is Sticky After 30 Minutes
It is ok to apply the bodycoat over the 4005 while it is sticky as long as the material does not peel up when you are walking on it.
I Let It Dry Longer Than 24 Hours:
Lightly sand the 4005 and thane re-apply another coat.
It is Drying Way Too Fast in The Heat
If you are finding that it kicks of too quick you can try using 4001 in its place. We have several customers in extremely hot areas that do this and it works great.

4010 Waterbased Pigmented Epoxy

Using the 4010 For a Chip System Without The Primer
We have quite a few customers who use the 4010 directly over concrete and then apply the flakes into it. They are very experienced and know how to work with it. They always profile the concrete by using an etch or other mechanical technique. The failure rate is under 5% and these applicators factor that into their business model. The second problem created is that the material sets up very fast when used this way because it is being sucked out into porous concrete so you need to throw the chips over it very quickly or they will not stick that well. If you choose to go this way it would probably be better for you to use the 4020 below since it has a longer potlife. This is why we recommend the 4005 primer for our system 1.
Chip Profile
The chips will tend to lay flatter in the 4010 or 4020, creating less surface profile when applying your clear topcoat.
Pot Life:
As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 4010, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material. The 4010 will take at least 3 hours to cure hard enough to scrape.
Accelerating:
We do not have an accelerator, however you can leave the mixed material in the container and allow it to heat up and then use it. This Exotherm causes the material to set up quicker but should only be attempted by experienced installers since there is a chance the material will turn into a big hard unusable mass

4020 Waterbased Pigmented Epoxy

Chip Profile
The chips will tend to lay flatter in the 4010 or 4020, creating less surface profile when applying your clear topcoat.
Pot Life:
As is the case with most epoxy's it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material. The 4020 will take at least 12 hours to cure hard enough to scrape.
Accelerating:
We do not have an accelerator, however you can leave the mixed material in the container and allow it to heat up and then use it. This Exotherm causes the material to set up quicker but should only be attempted by experienced installers since there is a chance the material will turn into a big hard unusable mass.

4100 Clear Vapor Blocking Epoxy

Using As a Primer For Cementitous Overlays:
4100 is a great primer for overlays, it wicks into the concrete, even old oily concrete and it provides a vapor block which will reduce the chances of the overlay from bubbling up from the surface due to MVE. Most decorative overlay contractors have at least one job they know of where their overlay always bubbles up and they have to go back and repair it each year. 4100 prevents allot of this from happening in the first place if installed correctly. First be sure you are coating over clean porous concrete, if you suspect more than 10lbs of MVE then mild shotblasting or grinding should be done to get an ICRI of at least 3. When removing the loose sand the next day it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that the surface look like sandpaper. If not you will have glassy shiny areas and the Cementitous materials will not bond well to these areas. If you have shiny spots apply a fast setting epoxy like our 4910 or 5205 hybrid primer to the area and then re-apply the sand. Wait 20 minutes or so and remove the sand, now you are ready to apply the topping.
Using As a Primer For Other Products:
If allowed to dry for 24 hours or more and the 4100 is very hard then lightly sand the 4100 (use a floor buffer with 160 screens) before applying other 2 component topcoats.
Coating Floors Over 10bs of MVE:
We recommend shotblasting or other mechanical profile be done on concrete surfaces that have an MVE Reading of between 10 and 20lbs.DO NOT USE ON FLOORS WITH HIGHER THAN 20LBS MVE!
Coating Over Tight Hard Troweled Concrete
Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates.
Coating Over Oil Stained Concrete
Clean of as much of the oil contaminants as possible and allow to dry. Some applicators will burn off heavily stained areas using a small propane torch. Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates. Apply 4100 to the concrete in stained area as a test and allow to dry. When dry check the 4100 to evaluate its penetration and adhesion to the concrete and if satisfied proceed to seal the entire area in the same manner.
Accelerating:
Use 41 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

4150 Pigmented Vapor Blocking Epoxy

Coating Floors Over 10bs of MVE:
We recommend shotblasting or other mechanical profile be done on concrete surfaces that have an MVE Reading of between 10 and 20lbs. A coat of 4100 primer should also be used over slabs that have 15lbs or more of MVE. DO NOT USE ON FLOORS WITH HIGHER THAN 20LBS MVE!
Coating Over Tight Hard Troweled Concrete
Thin the 4100 with xylene (use acetone in strict AQMD districts) up to 40% and apply at the same coverage rates. When dry, apply a second coat at full strength.
Chip Window:
We have found that it is best to allow the 4150 lay on the floor for 30 minutes before throwing the chips (when it is applied directly over concrete). If chipped sooner then you run the risk of the 4150 wicking up into the flake as well as down into the concrete. This will leave a ghosting effect which makes the concrete substrate visible around the edges of the flake.
Accelerating:
Use 41 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

4195 and Roll On Rock System 2

Concrete Profile
We do not recommend aggressive concrete preparation with this product. If you will be shotblasting then a primer like our 4100 or fast drying 5205 Hybrid is recommended. This is because the 4195 wicks into the concrete and if you open the concrete up there may be some suck out which will leave areas that did not hold much chip. All that is needed is a clean porous concrete surface. Do not acid etch period. Do not grind or shotblast unless there is an existing sealer or bond breaker present.

Open Time
You can add up to 1 cup of solvent to each one gallon kit. This will add more open time and increase you flaking window. Use Xylene in most areas for best results or use Acetone in strict AQMD districts.

Chipping Window
Wait at least 15 minutes if the concrete is very porous or 20 minutes if it is tight before throwing the flake. If you throw the flake too soon you risk the chance of the 4195 Epoxy wicking up into the chip as well as the concrete. If this occurs then the edges of the flake may have a transparent look. Watch the floor and start flaking if it looks like it is starting to set up but be sure to flake within 45 minutes or so.
Just Before Chipping into 4195
Right after laying about 2 kits of 4195 and using the same roller used to apply the 4195, go out onto the wet floor and dry roll the 4195 (which should not take any longer than 10 minutes). This will cause the 4195 to tack up in areas that it may be drying. The chips will stick more evenly to the 4195 when using this method.
Touch Up a Holiday Where The Flake Did Not Hold:
This will not be an issue with experienced installers but if you do get a holiday where the flake does not cover then go ahead and use the 5205 (or the topcoat you will be using) and apply it very tight to the surface that needs more flake. Then sprinkle a very small amount of flake onto it just so it blends in to the rest of the area. DO NOT OVER FLAKE! This is the biggest mistake people make and it will be noticeable. Look at the touched up area from other angles to be sure it blends in. Allow it to dry 20 minutes (or the amount of time your topcoat needs) then do a light re-scrape. Now your floor is ready to be sealed.
Customer Comments:
F.Y.I. (from Shayne)
I recommended the 5205 as a primer coat under the 4195 for a monolithic floor.  Cliff of Hyteck painting advised that worked great.  The 4195 glided over the floor and it was so shiny that he thought it wasn’t dry after 45 minutes and had to touch to see if it was dry.  He also mentioned that he got better coverage out of the 4195 with that primer.  He thinks he is going to try the entire hybrid system on his next job, but he said he will not use the 4195 without that primer under it again.

Mike / Erica,

    Much Thanks for  your time and support involving the fine tuning of my most recent floors ,   The floor here in Florida came out Exceptional!!    Information to share with others always helps  so here was  the process down here on my last project .. 
temp 85'     Humidity   at least 60% probably higher
220 sq ft
    1)  Mechanical abrade ( Edco grinder w/ pumice stone heads)
    2)  **4195** thinned w/ 1cup xylene..only used 3qts    and I did put it down pretty heavy
    3) "dry"rolled it after 10mins..as we discussed...then flaked to rejection ...
    4) next day  ..Excellent flake adhesion ...no missed spots ..no thin spots ...made for an easy scrape....
    5)   **5205***    spread thin but complete coverage @ 220 sq ft ...only used 3 qts of it as well..
    6)  then **5073**...Super Coverage with only 3qts   excellent backroll  with roller staying connected with material as we had discussed.
    7)   Job came out Super ...customer happy   ..Me Happy :)
    in hindsight I thought since I had such a good scrape and ended up with plenty of 5073 extra ..that I could have skipped the 5205...  I guess I am still learning in that respect, however the floor did came out as I liked so for now I will still try to use the 5205 first b4 the 5073...

Thank you very much again   ..I know alot of people are quick to contact you with the problems ..I just wanted you to know that I am grateful for the help and the excellent products as well......

PS please forward this to erica also      ...speak with you soon    Rich Mularski

4800 100% Solids Industrial Epoxy
Coating Over Concrete
4800 is an industrial grade epoxy that has great flow and leveling however it should not be applied direct to concrete. Be sure to use a primer suited for concrete before use.
Coating Large Areas
For large with widths of more than 30 feet it is best to maintain a wet edge by having 1 squeegee operator per 30 feet and 1 backroller per 60 feet of width. Also have a 1 mixing operator for every 3 squeegee operators. The idea is to start at one end of the facility and have all squeegee operators spread the material towards the other end while they are all working in infusion with each other to maintain the wet edge. Then the backrollers are following behind them on cleats backrolling the squeegeed material to a uniform level. Always plan starting and stopping points to be at joints in the concrete.
Using As a Build Coat Over Chip
Be sure to use the 4800 Non Yellowing material when using the 4800 as an inexpensive build coat over the flake. Do not apply the coating beyond the point where the garage door touches the ground. 4800 will yellow when exposed to normal exterior exposure so if you coat the outer lip of concrete beyond the garage door you can expect it to yellow. If needed use the final topcoat as the build coat for areas getting exterior exposures. Allow the 4800 to completely dry before top coating it. If top coating it with a waterbased topcoat then be sure to lightly sand the 4800 first.
Pot Life:
As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 4800, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
Accelerating:
Use 48 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.
Customer Comments:
F.Y.I. (from Shayne)
I recommended the 5205 as a primer coat under the 4195 for a monolithic floor.  Cliff of Hyteck painting advised that worked great.  The 4195 glided over the floor and it was so shiny that he thought it wasn’t dry after 45 minutes and had to touch to see if it was dry.  He also mentioned that he got better coverage out of the 4195 with that primer.  He thinks he is going to try the entire hybrid system on his next job, but he said he will not use the 4195 without that primer under it again.

4900 Epoxy Crack Repair
2 Passes may be needed since material is designed to soak into the crack for deep penetration which is required to bond the concrete back together.

4910 Fast Setting Epoxy
Apply the material within 5-8 minutes of mixing.
If coating over 4910 it should be done within 1-2 hours due to its fast cure. Sand the 4910 to de-gloss if more than 2 hours has passed.

5000 Polyurea (Always use an 18 inch roller for this product (or squeegee and backroll)
Coating Over Flake:
Only mix what can be used in 30 minutes (if potlife recommendations are followed). Pour the material out onto the floor and work it evenly across the floor by using the backroll technique. Avoid putting it on thicker than 150 sq ft per gallon. Watch for low spots or puddles because they will be noticeable when dry because the 500 will level out like glass in that area and be extra shiny.
Coating Over Solid Color or Stained Floors:
It is very important to use lint free rollers because the 5000 is so shiny it will show every spec of dust (much like a car paint job). Some specks may look like a bubble but they are only a spec of dust. Most of these will be unnoticeable after a few week break in period of wear. Be sure to get the material on quickly and evenly so it is fluid enough to release any bubbles that may be caused during application. As it begins to thicken the bubbles will not be able to escape. Because the floor is a solid color it will show bubbles more readily as the human eye is naturally drawn to it. If unsure of your ability, please do a sample area to familiarize yourself with the material. 5000 is used by many applicators to seal decorative concrete because of its gloss and odor free nature, however these applicators know how to use it properly.
Outgassing Bubbles Caused By Normal MVE:
Apply the 5000 when the temperatures are beginning to cool if you want to avoid bubbles caused by mve outgassing. Also try and do it when the temperature of the day is about 20% lower than the high for the day. These are some proven techniques that do work in regards to reducing the bubbles that can occur within the film by moisture vapor rising from within the concrete.
Higher Than Normal MVE:
Some applicators have had great success using a fast setting primer like our 5205 as a primer over slabs that have a higher amount of MVE. This is probably due to the fact that the 5205 starts to set up and go hard before any large amount of MVE has a chance to rise to the surface. As we learn more we will update this area. Obviously you may still get some bubbles and if so, go ahead and sand then and re-apply the 5205. This take care of it most of the time.
High MVE That Can Cause a Coating To Fail:
Test those suspect floors using our moisture test kits to determine the amount of MVE. Basically if you are applying a clear you will need to use non-yellowing material like our 5205, however we do not recommend that at levels higher then 5lbs at this point. For interior areas the best vapor blocking epoxy is 4100 but beware that it will darken the surface substantially due to its deep penetration. If you are unsure of how to proceed call VBP and speak to a technical person for some primer options.
Pot Life:
As is the case with most epoxy's yet more so with 5000, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
Accelerating:
Use 50 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

5073 Polyurea

Extra Build tip:
5205is great as a first topcoat over the flake or other absorbant surface when you want to create extra build, the reason is that you can apply it thinner so it seals the surface (Prevents the 5073 from diving into the flake) and it is dry in 20-30 minutes so you can put a coat of 5073 on top and all of it will remain ontop since the flake is already sealed. This saves money for the 2 coat installer because the 5205 is less expensive, covers more and dries extremely fast.
How to Get The Most Potlife:
First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.
5073 Topcoat Tips:
Work the material as listed above in the how to get most potlife section. The biggest thing to stress is uniform thickness. By using an 18 inch roller you are spreading the material more evenly since there are 2 pressure points be applied to the roller (the left & right side). Also be sure to cross roll all sections before proceeding to the next section. Watch for low spots or puddles as these will become shiners (round glassy areas that are noticeable). If applying another coat after 12 hours then be sure to lightly sand the surface to de-gloss it. 5073 Tip Guide can be accessed by clicking here 5073 Rolling Techniques
5073 Reported Problems Due to Unique Application Techniques:
2 Quick Thick Coats. If you try to do 2 thick topcoats quickly that you can get solvent blisters or other film defects due to the blocking of solvent release of first coat. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying second coat. Remember this material is designed to stay open in mas so if you put it on real thick it will take longer to dry, hence the long potlife when in the container. Try using a tight coat of 5205 and then topcoat that with 5073 30 minutes later, this should give you the build you are looking for.

5205 Hybrid Primer
Use as a Primer
5205 is a great fast setting concrete primer. It works best when applied over a lightly profiled clean porous concrete surface. Apply subsequent material over it as soon as it is dry. If more than 12 hours has passed then sand the surface to degloss it before proceeding. 5205 is great for use over interior or exterior surfaces where the MVE levels are at 5lbs or less.
How to Get The Most Potlife:
First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.
Customer Comments:
F.Y.I. (from Shayne)
I recommended the 5205 as a primer coat under the 4195 for a monolithic floor.  Cliff of Hyteck painting advised that worked great.  The 4195 glided over the floor and it was so shiny that he thought it wasn’t dry after 45 minutes and had to touch to see if it was dry.  He also mentioned that he got better coverage out of the 4195 with that primer.  He thinks he is going to try the entire hybrid system on his next job, but he said he will not use the 4195 without that primer under it again.

5210 Hybrid Bodycoat
Use to Accept Chips or Flakes
5210 is designed specifically to be chipped into. Do not use it as a solid monolithic coat as we have not designed it to have great color float. Throw the chips into the 5210 within 15 minutes of application. Use care when scraping the chips early as the material may still be slightly soft.
5210 takes 2 hours to dry before scraping:
If this is happening chances are that it is being applied too thick. Be sure it gets at least 250 sq ft per gallon coverage, if it is thicker then it will take longer to dry. Be sure to put it on evenly so you don't have any super soft spots.
How to Get The Most Potlife:
First, do your best to keep materials cool. Heat is the worst enemy of long potlife so don't leave it out in the sun on the driveway or in the truck bed. Unlike epoxy, all products used in the system 4 will have a longer potlife if left in the pails after being mixed. So on a typical 2 car garage you will find that it is broken up into 4 sections because of expansion joints or saw cut control joints. Start by pouring material out of the container in a fluid line on one section. Then begin to spread the material out so it covers that section. When section is covered be sure to backroll it at a right angle of first coat so the material is a uniform thickness (especially important when using the extremely glossy 5073 topcoat). Then proceed to do this process all over again on the next section, always working from material in the pail.

5300 Chemical Resistant Urethane

Heat Blisters:
5300 series can get bubbles or blisters if applied in extreme heat. Just be sure to apply in cooler times of the day or switch to one of our other sealers that do not show this problem.
Coating Over Concrete
5300 is an industrial grade chemical resistant that has great flow and leveling however it should not be applied direct to concrete. Be sure to use a primer suited for concrete before use.
Coating Large Areas
For large with widths of more than 30 feet it is best to maintain a wet edge by having 1 squeegee operator per 30 feet and 1 backroller per 60 feet of width. Also have a 1 mixing operator for every 3 squeegee operators. The idea is to start at one end of the facility and have all squeegee operators spread the material towards the other end while they are all working in infusion with each other to maintain the wet edge. Then the backrollers are following behind them on cleats back rolling the squeegeed material to a uniform level. Always plan starting and stopping points to be at joints in the concrete.
Pot Life:
As is the case with most epoxy's, it is very important to keep the material cool and also to get it out onto the floor before it starts to exotherm (get hot and start to set up). Pour out the material into bands onto the floor and then begin spreading the material.
Accelerating:
Use 53 accelerator to increase the set time in cold environments. at 50 degrees 1 accelerator will cause the material to dry as if it were 70 degrees, use 2 accelerators at 40 degrees. Do not use accelerators to shorten the set time so the job can be done faster because this can decrease the adhesion and MVE protection.

5400 and 5410
White Foamy Areas:
5400 will look white when applied too thick. It is rated for under 10 wet mils and if it is thicker than that bubbles will occur which make some areas look white. Watch for puddling around curbwalls and joints, just run a dry brush or roller over those areas to pick up excess materials before moving onto next section.
Foams Very Quick After Mixing:
This is because the material is very hot from being left under the sun in the container, etc. We have tested the material at higher temperatures and it will foam up very quickly after mixing when it is too hot. Keep the material temperature under 100 degrees to prevent this from happening.
I get White Areas When Installing While It Is Raining:
We do not recommend installing 5400 clear when it is raining outside due to the elevated moisture levels in the air. High moisture levels can cause the 5400 to get white areas. Use other topcoat products like the 5000, 5073 or 5300 if you are usually installing under these types of conditions.
Exterior Use:
Use the 5205 primer on exterior areas or a tight coat of 4001 if you want a breathable system. Be cautious using the 4001 because it will yellow when exposed to exterior UV so do not allow it to have any build. Do not use in extreme MVE areas next to really wet landscaping, pools, etc.
Hot Tire Marks:
We have heard of 2 instances where hot tires have left an oily residue from July 06 to August 07 (one of them was from extra wide off road truck tires). In this period there is over 800,000 sq ft of 5400 installed. If it is caught early all that is needed is a wipe down of the are using M.E.K.
Solid Color Coats:
Be sure that all of the pigment packs are the same lot number, if not box them together before adding. We do not recommend 5410 for industrial floors exposed to forklift traffic (use 4800, 5300 or 5073 as the topcoat in these types of areas).

Accelerators

Temperature Range
Expect the same dry time as 70 degrees when using 1 accelerator pack per kit of material at 50 degrees and 2 packs at 40 degrees.

Versa-Deck

Metal Lath:
Do not grind the metal lath as when preparing the surface to receive fiberglass. This removes the rust protection from the lath and may allow it to rust. Also do not pound in the staples as this can remove the protective coating around the staple.
Metal Lath Cement:
After trowling an area you can spray a small amount of water onto the wet cement and smooth trowel it for a smoother finish. DO NOT OVERWATER OR CRACKING WILL OCCUR!
Wrinkles and Bubbles
Most wrinkles and bubbles can be eliminated by using a metal fiberglass roller. We sell them for about $20-$30 and they will last for tens of thousands of sq ft. The proper technique is to roll the metal roller over freshly laminated fiberglass (just after rolling with a normal roller) by applying moderate pressure and rolling back and forth over the area it will cut into the fiberglass and make it sit down tight to the deck. To make the fiberglass roller last a long time, keep it in a pail that has a few inches of water in it while working. This will prevent the laminating resins from gumming up the roller. If the roller becomes caked with laminating re-using then you can use a normal paint stripper to remove it.
Repairing Bubbles and Wrinkles:
Cut out the areas using a razor blade and fill with patch=ing compound before proceeding to next step.
Fiberglass Seams:
There are 2 options in regards to seams. 1. You can butt the fiberglass together and then when dry fill the seams with patching compound. 2. You can fold the fiberglass in half (so both seam edges are together) and then begin to fray the edges of the fiberglass by pulling it apart with your index finger and thumb. Then when you butt the fiberglass together and laminate it you can use the metal roller to make it appear as a seamless piece. The ends will meld together in most areas.
Applying the Topcoat:
Do not apply the topcoat in the extreme heat of the day as this will cause streaks because a wet edge can not be maintained. Also be aware that the surface temperature may be much hotter than the air temperature which can affect adhesion. Wait until it is cooler and then apply 2 coats (the 2nd coat at a right angle of the 1st) while maintaining a wet edge.

Versastain
No tips yet, pretty simple stuff.

P-Stain
No tips yet, pretty simple stuff.

Versa-Glaze
Solvent Blisters:
Do not apply a 2nd coat the same day or solvent blisters may appear due to the solvent from the first coat still escaping.
Streaking:
To avoid streaking always maintain a wet edge. As this material provides a wet look if it dries before the roller pass runs up next to it there will be a chance of streaking. Also apply at cooler times in the day to allow the material to stay wet longer.
Which Application Technique Should I Use:
Pump up sprayer, most concrete guys will spray the material on using this method because they have more experience using it. Usually the material is thinned first with Xylene for best results or Acetone in stricter AQMD districts.
Rolling, most painters use rollers because they have more experience with this method. It is probably slightly harder to maintain a wet edge this way but at least you don't have to worry about overspray.

Metal Lath Cement
Metal Lath Cement:
After trowling an area you can spray a small amount of water onto the wet cement and smooth trowel it for a smoother finish. DO NOT OVERWATER OR CRACKING WILL OCCUR!